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Isaan Travel Information
The Isaan region covers about 1/3 of the country of Thailand. It
is bounded by the Mekong River to the north and east, and by
high hills or mountains to the west and south. (see map of
Thailand)
Isaan (E-saan) can refer to either the name of the Isaan people,
their language or the northeast Thailand region. There are about
20 million Isaan people, most of them living in Northeast
Thailand. The Isaan are known throughout Thailand as people who
want to live life to the fullest. They are seen as a
hardworking, hard playing, and hard luck people who have a
sturdy sense of independence in spite of being looked down on by
some from better off regions of the country.
The Isaan are mainly descended from Laotian migrations
beginning in the about the 15th century. Isaan people speak a
variation of the Lao language known as "Isaan". Due to the
Central Thai government's policy of requiring all national
schools to teach in Central Thai, most Isaan people have at
least some ability to speak, read and write Central Thai,
although most speak their Isaan language in the home.
The Isaan region has remained the poorest part of Thailand,
largely due to poor soil and climate for farming. But despite
the relatively unfertile soil, agriculture remains the mainstay
of the Isaan economy. Around 90% of the population is engaged in
farming. More than half of the rice grown is the glutinous
variety (sticky rice) preferred by the people of Isaan. The
northeast has about 60% of Thailand's water buffalos, which are
used in farming.
Agriculture is
the largest sector of the economy, generating around 22% of the
Gross Regional Product (compared to 8.5% for Thailand as a
whole). Sticky rice, the staple food of the region, is the main
agricultural crop (accounting for about 60% of the cultivated
land). It thrives in the poorly drained paddy fields, and where
fields can be flooded from nearby streams, rivers and ponds,
often two harvests are possible each year. Farmers are
increasingly diversifying into cash crops such as sugar cane and
cassava (manioc), which are cultivated on a vast scale, and to a
lesser extent, rubber. Silk production is an important cottage
industry and contributes significantly to the economy. The long,
narrow fertile province of Nong Khai Province, which stretches
along the Mekong River, is also noted for the production of
pineapples, tobacco (which is dried, cured and shredded by the
families before collection by the cigarette manufacturers) and
tomatoes, which are grown on an industrial scale, particularly
around the town of Sri Chiang Mai.
Despite its dominance of the economy, agriculture in the region
is extremely problematic. The climate is prone to drought, while
the flat terrain of the plateau is often flooded in the rainy
season. The tendency to flood renders a large proportion of the
land unsuitable for cultivation. In addition, the soil is highly
acidic, saline and infertile from overuse. Since the 1970s,
agriculture has been declining in importance as the trade and
service sectors have been increasing.
Very few farmers still use water buffalo rather than tractors.
Nowadays, the water buffalo are mainly kept by almost all rural
families as status symbols. The main piece of agricultural
equipment in use today is the 'rot tai na' (Thai: รถไถนา, lit.
"vehicle plow field") colloquially referred to as 'kwai lek'
(Thai: ควายเหล็ก, or "iron/steel buffalo"), or more generally by
its manufacturer's name of "Kobota", a mini tractor comprising a
small diesel engine mounted on two wheels with two long wooden
or metal handlebars for control and steering. It is usually
attached to a trailer or a plow. Buffalo are now mainly used for
grazing on the stubble in the rice paddy, which they in turn
fertilize with their manure. The main animals raised for food
are cattle, pigs, chickens, ducks and fish.
Maw Lom music is indigenous to Lao/Isaan culture.
It is traditional music which uses a bamboo instrument, the
khaen, and incorporates Isaan forms.
One marked characteristic of the Northeasterner is a sturdy
sense of independence. This trait is demonstrated by the
unusually high proportion of people who are self-employed,
owning and operating their own farms. Isaan people also place a
high value on having fun, and are considered warm and cheerful
people.
The main language of the region is Isan, which is a dialect of the Lao language. As a dialect of Lao, but written in the Thai alphabet, Isan is among the Chiang Seng and Lao-Phutai languages, which are members of the Tai languages of the Kradai language family. Thai is also spoken, with regional accents, by almost everyone. Khmer (the language of Cambodia) is widely spoken in regions near the Cambodian border (Buriram, Surin, and Sisaket). Most of the population is of Lao origin, but the region's incorporation into the modern Thai state has been largely successful.
The major occupation of the Isaan is rice farming, but they
are also employed as taxi drivers, construction workers, and
beauticians, and professionals such as teachers, doctors, and
government workers. Particularly in the provinces of Khon Kaen,
Roiet, Surin, and Korat, they are well known for their silk
weaving skills, making an especially beautiful type of silk
known as "mud mee".
The agriculture of the Northeast is primarily rain-fed. This
means that there is a drastic reduction in the demand for labor
during the dry season. Unemployment can then reach 30-40% of the
Isaan labor force. The unemployed often deal with this problem
by moving outside of Isaan to look for work. Many Isaan families
rely heavily on funds sent back from these outside jobs.
However, with the economic crash throughout Thailand and Asia,
many Isaan are unable to find work.
Most meals include sticky rice as the staple, along with
vegetables and usually some type of protein. Many green plants
are eaten, including many varieties unknown to Westerners. Hot
chili peppers are incorporated into many dishes, as well as
garlic, coriander, mint, and dill. Fermented fish (often raw)
contributes protein but can also be a source of parasites. Other
proteins include chicken, beef, pork, fish, frogs, field crabs,
insects, iguanas, field rats, and other animals.
The Mekong forms
a large part of the border between Thailand and Laos to the
north and east of Isan, while the south of the region borders on
Cambodia. The Mekong's main Thai tributary is the Mun River,
which rises in the Khao Yai National Park near Khorat and runs
east, joining the Mekong in Ubon Ratchathani Province. The other
main river in Isan is the Chi River, which flows through central
Isan before turning south to meet the Mun in Sisaket Province.
The smaller Loei and Songkhram rivers are also tributaries of
the Mekong, the former flowing north through Loei province and
the latter flowing east through Udon Thani, Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon
Phanom and Nong Khai Provinces.
The average temperature range is from 30.2 °C to 19.6 °C. The
highest temperature recorded was 43.9 °C in Udon Thani, the
lowest -1.4 °C at Sakhon Nakhon Agro Station.
Rainfall is unpredictable, but is concentrated in the rainy
season from May to October. Average annual precipitation varies
from 2000 mm in some areas to 1270 mm in the southwestern
provinces of Nakhon Ratchasima, Buriram, Maha Sarakham, Khon
Kaen and Chaiyaphum. The rainy season begins with occasional
short but heavy showers, eventually raining very heavily for
longer periods almost every day, usually in the late afternoon
or at night, until it ends abruptly at the onset of the cool
season.
The other seasons are the cool season from October to February,
when the people sit outside around fires in the evenings, and
the hot season from February to May with its sudden peak of high
temperatures in April.